License to chill

Skip the ice cream: Cool your summer with bingsu, semifreddo and kulfi

By John Lehndorff - Jul. 23, 2024
bingsu
Caramel snow bingsu served at Longmont’s Bowl Izakaya. Credit: John Lehndorff

In the middle of the summer swelter of 2024, frozen relief isn’t hard to find. Boulder County shops dish endless ice cream, gelato and sorbet — not to mention frozen custard, liquid nitrogen ice cream, mochi and soft serve — in some truly odd flavors. For instance, Boulder’s Van Leeuwen Ice Cream shop offers limited-time combos like Kraft Macaroni & Cheese ice cream.

Interesting chill thrills are nothing new locally. In 1964, Manuel’s Sweet Shop, 1100 28th St., Boulder, was scooping 40 sundae varieties, according to the Boulder Daily Camera. One sundae on the menu (suggested by the Tri Delta sisters) was the Purple Passion: vanilla and peach ice creams topped with banana slices, berries, pecans, whipped cream and red wine sauce.

If your buds have grown bored licking the same old Rocky Road, a global menu of exotic brain freeze opportunities is available at metro shops and restaurants — if you know where to look.

Kulf

Boulder County’s many Indian and Nepali grocery stores and restaurants offer this traditional frozen cream dessert. Unchurned, it has a dense texture, making it a slow-melting treat. Flavors range from rose and mango to cardamom and saffron kulfi. One eatery that makes its kulfi from scratch is Sherpa’s in Boulder. Sherpa’s Adventure Restaurant & Bar, 825 Walnut St.

Snow Bingsu

To make this Korean dessert, frozen ice cream is riced to produce a delicate texture. At Bowl Izakaya, snow bingsu is offered in several sweet variations. A huge bowl — more than enough for two — is adorned with cheesecake chunks, almonds, caramel sauce and chocolate cookies that soak in the melting cream. Bowl Izakaya, 1232 S. Hover St., Longmont

Bouilderricecream

Semifreddo

This Italian frozen dessert contains similar ingredients to the American classic but is whipped instead of churned. The result is a light, fluffy frozen mousse in traditional flavors like chocolate, mint, espresso and pistachio. Two Niwot eateries are currently featuring semifreddo on their dessert menus. Farow, 7916 Niwot Road; Cimmini’s, 300 2nd Ave.

Dole Whip

Dole Whip is a non-dairy soft-serve frozen treat. Originally made with pineapple, it can be found now in other flavors like orange, mango and raspberry. A Longmont potato doughnut destination offers this brain-freezing treat. Landline Doughnuts & Coffee, 321 Main St.

Italian water ice

Neither sorbet nor shaved ice, finely textured Italian ices are made simply from sugar, water, fruit and flavors like limeade, orange cream, root beer and wild cherry. Rock City Pie & Ice makes it from scratch. Rock City Pie & Ice, 1386 U.S. Highway 287, Broomfield

Thai rolled ice cream

Rather than an ancient tradition, rolled ice cream is a modern creation. Liquid base is poured on asub-zero frozen sheet, then scraped, mixed with ingredients and rolled into a cone. Frozen Spirals, 5055 W. 72nd Ave., Westminster

Hawaiian shave ice

Unlike carnival snow cones that use crushed ice, it is thinly shaved for this dessert. The snowier texture absorbs various sweet syrups and toppings. Punch Buggy Shave Ice, 640 Main St., Louisville; 400 W. South Boulder Road, Lafayette

Halo Halo

A Filipino variation on Korean bingsu, halo halo (literally “mix-mix”) tops shaved ice with tropical fruits, condensed milk, flan and coconut jellies. Mix it all together before enjoying. Chowsun, 830 S. Buckley Road, Aurora

CoorsSpaghetti

New Zealand ice cream

A specially designed machine blends hard ice cream with frozen fruit to produce a swirled mashup of sorbet and soft serve. The signature flavor is Hokey Pokey — vanilla ice cream filled with bits of honeycomb toffee. Happy Cones, 5505 W. 20th Ave., Edgewater

Spaghetti ice cream

Aramark food service has introduced a new dessert called polar pasta: vanilla “spaghetti” topped with donut holes, strawberry syrup and mint. Unfortunately, you can only taste it by attending a game involving the pitiful Colorado Rockies. Section 119 at Coors Field, Denver.


Read more from BW food editor John Lehndorff

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