Nobody is neutral when it comes to mashed potatoes, but true tater haters are a rare and weird breed. Some version of these comforting spuds will grace every family feast during the coming season.
According to a recent MenuTrends survey, 81% of Gen Z respondents “like” or “love” potatoes, compared to 90% of Millennials and 92% of Gen Xers. Baby Boomers? Mashed or whipped, 95% of them are passionate about their spuds.
Mashers seem so simple — just potatoes, milk and butter — yet there are thousands of recipes online. You could spend all day watching Instagram and TikTok how-to videos.
We’re not here to give you another easy recipe, but to gift you a nerdy, chef’s-eye insight into understanding how mashed potatoes work.
Chef Paolo Neville did not grow up with mashers. He has zero nostalgic tales of mom’s recipe.
Neville owns Lafayette’s Urban Hot Dog Collective, a food truck and event catering outfit. He has run the kitchens at 95a Bistro, Brasserie Ten Ten and The Med, as well as fine-dining restaurants in California’s wine country.
“In my house,” Neville says, “all we got was a lot of whole grains and organic vegetables.”
Neville’s gateway mashers moment happened when he was a teen.
“My first experience with mashed potatoes was going over to friends’ houses and eating regular, Midwest, all-American food,” he says. “I thought it was the best thing ever — I’d been so deprived.”
After his awakening, Neville devoted himself to perfecting the simple starch.
“As soon as I started making them, I figured out the best ways to whip them up,” he says. “Pretty much every restaurant I’ve ever worked in has done some form of mashed potatoes.”
Mashed, whipped or smashed?
All mashers are not the same, according to Neville.
“If I’m going for something pretty refined and maybe leaning French, I’ll make pommes with no lumps using a simple tool called a ricer. You put the drained boiled potatoes through the little holes to make them smooth,” he says.
For these smooth whipped potatoes, always peel the spuds before you slowly bring them to a boil in a large pot of cold salted water. If they’re not too small, quarter them: Tiny chunks tend to dissolve, according to Neville.
Uniformity is key, too: “You want the potato to cook evenly. If you throw a potato into boiling water, the outside of the potato is going to be overcooked by the time the inside is done. You’re basically wasting a lot of potato.”
The key to firm but still fork-tender in the middle potatoes is to avoid overcrowding the pot and then gradually turn up the heat.
Russet, Yukon gold or red?
The potato variety you use makes a huge difference in the mashers that result. Most, but not all, whipped potatoes are made with russets, according to Neville.
“But I like the flavor and butteriness of Yukon golds,” he says. “You can leave the skins on because they are so thin.”
The chef often combines several varieties, like a 50-50 mix of russets and Yukon golds or white potatoes. Waxy red potatoes have traditionally been reserved for hash browns, not mashers, but Neville thinks they are more than acceptable.
“I’ve had a lot of success using reds to make rustic mashers with chunks in it,” he says.
Milk, butter and timing
Some cooks use cream in their mashers, but chef Neville goes with whole milk. “I find that they hold better until you’re ready to serve,” he says.
The when is more important than the what: “The most important step is to add the milk to the potatoes as soon as you drain the hot water. First, mix or whip the potatoes by themselves to smooth them out before gradually adding the milk. You can heat the milk and butter together, but I always combine the unsalted butter first, and then slowly add the milk.”
Another pro tip: “I warm the milk in a pan before adding it.” Neville urges caution when adding hot milk to a mixer bowl. “Adding too much milk at once while the beater is going can make it explode in your face.”
The hard part is knowing how to add just the right amount of liquid. Neville says it is less about measuring and more about paying attention.
“You have to look at it and decide the consistency is right. Nobody wants runny mashers,” he says. “Taste as you go, and add salt and white pepper — no black specks.”
Many cooks also add other ingredients like horseradish, roasted green chilies and roasted (never raw!) garlic. Neville keeps the mashers as a simple canvas to show off the other flavors in a meal.
“Sour cream is interesting because you’re crossing that line between butter and milk in consistency,” he says. “I like sour cream because it gives some tanginess especially in rustic red potato mashers. I add a tiny bit of nutmeg or cayenne — enough to add depth, not spiciness.”
Avoid T-Day madness: Mash ahead
“Thanksgiving hosts always have way too many things to do at the last minute. There’s no reason not to make mashers two hours ahead and hold them covered in a baking dish,” Neville says.
When you pull the turkey out of the oven to rest 30 minutes before carving, put the mashers in to reheat. After that, the mashers are ready for butter or gravy — and the applause from your mashed potato-loving family and friends.
A-peeling Dessert: Mashed spud fudge
Colorado’s San Luis Valley is the second largest potato growing region in the U.S., producing more than two billion pounds annually, according to the Colorado Potato Administrative Committee. They share this odd-sounding recipe that produces great fudge.
Creamy Colorado Potato Fudge: Melt 3 ounces unsweetened dark chocolate and 4 tablespoons butter in a double boiler — i.e., a pot or bowl atop a pan of simmering water. Remove from heat and thoroughly mix in 1/3 cup mashed, unseasoned Colorado potatoes, 1/8 teaspoon salt and 2 teaspoons vanilla extract. Blend in 1 pound of powdered sugar and then add 1/2 cup chopped walnuts or pecans and knead until smooth. Press into buttered 8-inch square pan. Cool in the refrigerator before cutting.
For extra flavor, nuts can be toasted before adding.