Dumpling joints are popping up all over the metro area, including in Boulder. Back in the early 2000s, they were a rare find. Honestly, the first time I ventured into Lao Wang Noodle House, I was a dumpling virgin.
The front window of the small strip-mall space on S. Federal Boulevard had a sign in the front window reading, “The best potstickers in Denver.”
As a professional dining critic, I was dubious, but I had only tasted a few faux potstickers at that time. I knew nothing about the larger world of dumplings and Taiwanese food.
Lao Wang’s potstickers were mouthfuls of bliss surrounded by crunch with a simple soy dipping sauce. When I bit into my first soup-filled dumpling, I managed to squirt myself in the face with scalding liquid.
I was head-over-heels hooked. I also soon learned the oddly strict Lao Wang dining ground rules. You had to order everything at once. You were also on Lao Wang time: the food came when it came. Nagging only delayed delivery. There were no second rounds or split checks. Disobeying meant getting a scolding from the owners, “Papa” Tse-Ming and “Mama” Chun-Ming Wang. They were two of the crankiest, tantrum-prone people I’ve ever encountered in a restaurant that I loved so much.
The glowing review I wrote about Lao Wang Noodle House for the Rocky Mountain News proudly occupied a wall near the front door starting in the early 2000s. It will hang there until the shop closes for good on Feb. 15.
Papa Wang passed away three years ago, and Mama Wang — who makes all the dumplings by hand — is approaching 85.
I just want to say a heartfelt “thank you” for the education.
Local Food News: R.I.P. Blue Parrot Sauce
From the time Louisville’s Blue Parrot Restaurant opened in 1919 until closing in 2017, the eatery topped their fat noodles and meatballs with a classic tomato sauce. Blue Parrot Spaghetti Sauce was also very familiar to several generations of students as it was served in Boulder Valley School District cafeterias. Until recently, the sauce was also sold at local supermarkets, but production of Blue Parrot Spaghetti Sauce was recently discontinued.
Duets Bistro and Deli, a deli, bistro and craft cocktail bar, is open at 600 S. Airport Road in Longmont.
Coming soon: In-N-Out Burger, 735 Harvest Moon Drive, Longmont which will have a drive-thru that can accommodate 29 vehicles simultaneously.
Culinary Calendar: Cool community potluck
The BoCo Seasonal Supper Club is a unique new community potluck event centered around locally produced ingredients. Grains will be featured at the first meal Feb. 13 at the Altona Grange (9386 N. 39th St., Longmont). Guests bring a dish large enough to share. Proceeds benefit Boulder County Farmers Markets. Tickets: bit.ly/3CJBeAu
Plan ahead: The Taste of Pearl walking tour of downtown Boulder is April 6. boulderdowntown.com/taste-of-pearl
Words to Chew On: ‘Authentic’ cuisine?
"Just about every cuisine in the world is already a fusion cuisine: Wars, invasions, colonialism and immigration patterns have played key roles in the evolution of most food cultures around the globe.” – Salma Abdelnour
John Lehndorff hosts Radio Nibbles 8:20 a.m. Thursdays on KGNU, 88.5 FM and streaming at kgnu.org. Comments: [email protected]