Hollandaise and history

The Jamestown Mercantile is only 14 miles away, yet few of us make the curving canyon climb northwest of Boulder. 

At least not by car: Dozens of bikers were making the trek on the golden Sunday morning when I finally drove to Jamestown, evidence for the passion the cycling community has for this beautiful route. And while the journey is part of the fun, the destination here — known simply as “The Merc” — is what makes it worthwhile. 

The combination cafe, community hub and music venue has been a magnet since it was built around 1896 in blink-and-you-miss-it Jamestown, home to just a few hundred residents today. 

The building’s Western false front exterior welcomes visitors to a comfortable space with stained glass and plants in the sunny front window. Food and drink are ordered from a chalkboard menu at the counter, to be consumed at mismatched vintage tables and chairs inside, on the breezy patio or in the little park across the street.  

Jamestown resident Rainbow Shultz had earned a master’s degree in social work and filled orders at The Merc for five years before taking it over 15 years ago.

“I loved eating and cooking and people, so this was the perfect place for me,” Shultz says. “There’s a lot of collaboration with artists and musicians, too. If it’s their first time singing in public, we buy them a beer for being so brave.”

For most of its history, The Merc (first built as a post office and general store in the mining town) wasn’t known for its food. Shultz’s goal was to maintain the charm but upgrade the fare with locally sourced ingredients and scratch-made sauces.

Eating at The Merc is a different experience depending on the day of the week. Closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, the Jamestown Mercantile opens Wednesdays with a menu of burgers and sides to go with cocktails and an open mic. Thursday nights are different every week. 

“We have what we call a ‘take-it-or-leave it menu’ that can be Asian, Italian or something from New Orleans,” Shultz says. 

For instance, one recent Thursday featured Vietnamese rice noodle bowls with pork belly or fried tofu, and another included Moroccan Chicken with roasted spiced potatoes and spanakopita.

Fridays are the designated “date night” with a focus on small plates, cocktails and paired wines, while Saturdays are geared toward cyclists and leaf-peepers with grab-and-go burritos and breakfast sandwiches. Sundays are for brunch.

Music is featured every day the Jamestown Mercantile is open. Shultz proudly notes that the space has become a go-to performance venue. Local musicians featured at The Merc have included Chuck Sitero, Lara Ruggles, Fast Floyd, Johnny Blueheart, Oh My Yummy and the George Nelson Band. 

Floods, fires and recessions

The Merc also functions as Jamestown’s de facto history museum. Artifacts are everywhere in the building, including historic photos on the restroom walls. 

“People stop in and tell us about their relatives who lived and mined in these hills,” Shultz says. 

During Shultz’s time at The Merc, Jamestown has weathered economic downturns, wildfire threats, the COVID-19 pandemic and the 2013 flood that destroyed many buildings and almost cut the town in half. 

“Through its history, Jamestown has always been resilient,” she says, pointing out that the community has survived a series of gold booms and mineral busts as well as a series of floods and fires since the first Anglo settler arrived in 1860. 

There were times when the town and The Merc were on life support.
The ongoing challenge, Shultz says, is keeping the restaurant viable through the frigid months before the greenery, tourists and cyclists return. Other nearby mountain eateries like Marrocco’s Family Dining in Ward and the Gold Hill Inn go into hibernation for the winter.

“We do anything we can to get people here,” she says, “including dance parties, comedy and game nights.”

Sipping coffee after brunch at The Merc and listening to John Prine tunes, my thoughts turn to the tens of thousands of folks who have walked on these worn wooden floors over the past 125 years. 

The Merc persists because it’s the kind of place that makes people fall totally in love with Colorado, and reminds us locals why we moved here in the first place.

Taste of the Week: Ladles of Hollandaise

The Jamestown Mercantile may look super casual and hippie rustic, but Shultz and her crew take the food very seriously.  

The small Sunday brunch chalkboard menu includes good locally roasted coffee, pastries, breakfast sandwiches, eggs and sides (including smoked trout), plus well-made favorites like crispy chile and cheese rellenos with eggs and an edgy green chile sauce.  

When we sat down at The Merc – admittedly for the first time in 20 years — it was the little Sunday brunch essentials that were most impressive.

The scratch-made lemony Hollandaise was spot on and generously ladled on a crab cake benedict... and anything else on the menu. 

The Merc’s roasted and griddled Yukon Gold spuds were ideally crispy with creamy insides. Plates of breakfast burritos and soft corn breakfast tacos were garnished with a salad of fresh local greens. 

For dessert, we enjoyed cannoli-style French toast. The East Coast twist was a topping of sweetened ricotta, chocolate chips and fresh raspberries. 

Whether by four wheels or two, if you make the climb to The Merc for brunch, expect to be part of a patient, friendly, communal and chill experience.

Read more local food news from Boulder Weekly