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June 4- June 10, 2009
buzz@boulderweekly.com
• Summer sizzle
Your guide to gearing up your grill
by Bill Daley
• The Dessert Diva
A local chef shares her sweet secrets
by Danette Randall
 Rough hewn and down home
Tortilleria El Rey provides the authentic Mexican fare Boulder needs
by Clay Fong
Very few things give me greater joy than tucking into a meal at an unpretentious Mexican joint with decent prices and ample portions. Boulder’s Tortilleria El Rey more than adequately fills the bill with traditional fare in a low-key venue adjoining a Valmont Road print shop. A few years back, El Rey was once so nondescript that I described it as having an ambience on par with a UPS shipping counter.
Things have improved since then, as the interior furnishings have been revamped and depict lively cacti-dotted landscapes in vibrant folk art colors. An eclectic collection of artwork adorns the walls, ranging from studies of some fine equine specimens to a photograph of a dapper young man in a white suit who reportedly ate 17 tacos in one sitting here. His medical record was not on display.
Despite such photographic inspiration, colleague J.P. and I weren’t out to pursue any acts of culinary derring-do — we just wanted a down-home meal. Classic menu choices included à la carte tacos for $1.99 each, burritos, the usual platters of enchiladas and tamales, and a trio of seafood soups. I was vaguely disappointed that we were visiting on a weekday since I’m due for my annual bowl of menudo, which is only available on Saturdays and Sundays. J.P. also seemed surprised that I was going to forego my favorite $11.50 lengua platter, saying, “Man, you’re the only non-Latino I know that likes that stuff.” While El Rey’s tongue is among the best in town with pleasantly chewy texture and not-too-salty flavor, I wanted to break new ground.
We started out with salsa and chips consisting of crisp and hot triangles of freshly fried tortilla. J.P. raved about the tangy and subtly spicy red salsa. A $3.50 order of guacamole was even better. The consistency of this avocado dip balanced perfectly between creamy and chunky, with bits of tomato and cilantro adding color and contrast to the smooth flavor. While El Rey’s version isn’t quite at the level of more expensive versions prepared tableside, it’s a more than fair value for the money.
J.P.’s choice was the $10.75 carne asada platter which differed from most interpretations in that it appeared to be composed of ground beef rather than the expected flank steak. Upon closer examination, the meat wasn’t ground, but minced. The flavor was still pleasingly meaty, aided by pungent grilled onions, peppers and jalapeños. Wrapped into one of El Rey’s rough-edged tortillas, this beef made for a hearty and deeply satisfying Mexican meal.
Similar satisfaction came from my $11.25 shrimp plate. While this generous portion of crustaceans may not have approached the quality found in a top-shelf seafood restaurant, they were about what you’d expect in a place like this. They were of medium size, with decent flavor and firm consistency. While the accompanying red pepper-infused sauce was a bit oily for my taste, it still possessed decent spice without masking the seafood flavor.
The included side of rice was nothing surprising, but the refried beans distinguished themselves with a light and velvety mouthfeel, that likely comes from the addition of copious amounts of fat. But one doesn’t come to a place like El Rey to count calories. One comes here for certain rough-hewn pleasures that a down home Mexican restaurant can provide.
Clay’s obscurity corner
The tortilla press
The newest culinary contraption around the Fong household is a tortilla press. The press consists of two hinged iron discs with a handle on top to increase leverage. To make corn tortillas, all you have to do is mix instant corn masa flour with water and a bit of salt, and roll it all into a ball. After covering the surfaces of the press with plastic wrap, you put the ball between the two discs and press down to create a tortilla. Toss it on a hot ungreased frying pan and you’ll quickly enjoy the best tortillas you’ll ever have.
Tortilleria El Rey
2966 Valmont Rd.,
Boulder, 303-442-1266
Respond: letters@boulderweekly.com
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