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April 23-29, 2009
buzz@boulderweekly.com

•  The Dessert Diva

• Unsung superfoods

Healthful foods you should incorporate into your diet (and how to enjoy them)
by Julie Deardorff


The critical elements
The Lazy Dog fulfills all the requirements of the classic sports bar
by Clay Fong

Aristotle’s tome Poetics held that the critical elements of a classic tragedy consist of the following: character, theme, speech, melody and spectacle. A boorish wannabe historian such as this correspondent might conclude that had the sports bar been existant in the time of Aristotle, he might have instead expounded on the critical elements of a classic watering hole. So instead of extolling the virtue of “mythos,” or plot, this learned philosopher might have lauded “plasmodium,” or the prevalence of plasma TVs. Certainly Pearl Street’s Lazy Dog Sports Bar & Grill provides a worthy hypothetical in determining the additional elements of this speculative treatise.

Joining me in my investigation was my counselor Keith, although perhaps I should call him Keithus for the purpose of this exercise.

As we entered, we found another key element, the setting, was a fine example of what a sports bar ought to be. The sightlines for the big screen TVs were equally good from just about any vantage point, and the casual wooded interior provided comforting ambience.

Just as a classic piece of literature follows the structure prescribed by Aristotle, the Lazy Dog’s menu successfully sets the stage for a quintessential sports-bar experience. Chicken wings and fried calamari highlight the selection of starters, leading up to an assortment of burgers, pasta and seafood. There’s also a decent number of barbecue options that set this tavern apart.

While we waited for our lunches, an apparently dehydrated Keithus quickly downed his Diet Coke after being served. On her next pass, our server audibly gasped as she noticed his glass was empty. Her exclamation was vaguely disconcerting, although the rest of our interactions with her were genial and efficient. To her credit, she picked up the glass and quickly returned with a refill despite her unbridled amazement.

Foreshadowing the classical theme, Keithus obligingly ordered a $10.95 Greek Salad. It contained all the expected elements, such as romaine, tomato, ringlets of red onion, feta cheese and kalamata olives. But the addition of gyros meat gave it a level of heft lacking in some versions, and this extra ingredient supported the argument that one rarely goes hungry on a sports bar’s ample portions. While this choice didn’t break new ground for a Greek Salad, it suited Keith’s needs for a reasonably healthy, yet still flavorful and satisfying repast.

As a barbecue lover, I decided to sample the $11.95 Po’ Boy sandwich. Although purists may scoff at this selection’s mix of both brisket and pork, it still makes for a decent smoked meat odyssey. The meat was tender, although it lacked the falling-off-the-bone qualities of true slow-cooked barbecue. But the taste was more or less right with a tangy sauce that didn’t go overboard on the sweetness. Although the beans might have benefited from longer cooking, the side of slaw was crisp and fresher tasting than one might have expected from a sports bar. One of the strongest elements was the seasoned fries, which had a darn near perfect texture and subtle yet compelling spicing.

A dramatic work requires certain Aristotlean elements to work as a cohesive whole. Similarly, a sports bar also requires components such as a comfortable atmosphere, generous portions and decent service to fulfill customer expectations. Following these criteria, the Lazy Dog definitely lives up to its own promise.

Photo: Charles Loughliin

Clay’s obscurity corner
Punk rock sports bars
In the bizarre coincidences department, I was listening to the Dropkick Murphys’ The Gang’s All Here while researching sports bar history. Boston’s Third Base Saloon has a strong claim to being America’s first sports bar. A popular hangout for Sox fans in the early 1900s, the Third Base was owned by Michael “Nuf Ced” McGreevy. Nuf Ced led the Royal Rooters, the Sox’s loyal fan club, who counted John Fitzgerald and John F. Kennedy’s grandfathe, among its numbers. Although the Third Base was shuttered by Prohibition, it was reopened five years ago by Ken Casey — a founding member of the Dropkick Murphys.

Lazy Dog Sports Bar & Grill
1346 Pearl Street 303-440-3355

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