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April 2-8, 2009
buzz@boulderweekly.com
• Eggcelent ideas
Crack open some versatile value
by Sharon Thompson
 A spicy standby
Terrace Maya is a South-of-the-Border staple
by Clay Fong
Pancho Barnes’ bar was the legendary watering hole immortalized in Tom Wolfe’s paean to American test pilots and astronauts, The Right Stuff. A hole-in-the-wall hangout for aviators seeking to break the sound barrier, Pancho’s had a wall filled with photographs of pilots who lost their lives trying to crack Mach 1. I was reminded of this memorial as I saw the pictures of happy patrons, who are presumably still alive, behind the bar at North Boulder’s Terrace Maya Mexican restaurant.
Perhaps my morbid take was also informed by this welcoming eatery’s creepy yet cute Day of the Dead décor. Hanging above the table shared by friend Tertia was a diorama titled “The Story of Our Love,” depicting tiny skeletons going through courtship, marriage, childbirth and death. Yet the overall atmosphere was still festive and set off by a sunny South of the Border color scheme, accented by bits of traditional folk art. The customers appeared to be lively regulars, ordering unhesitatingly off the lengthy menu.
Selections include several lunch combos ranging from $8.95 to $12.95 that consist of the traditional mixes of tacos, chile rellenos and enchiladas. Other standbys include fajitas, chimichangas and smothered burritos. Those seeking something more off the beaten path can tuck into seafood enchiladas and those with lighter appetites can nibble on taco salads and seafood-stuffed avocados. Our meal began when our server plunked down a complimentary serving of chips and salsa. While the reddish-brown salsa suffered from a touch of over-refrigeration, its underlying smoky and spicy qualities compensated for this small deficiency, and the texture was pleasingly chunky. Thin and crisp tortilla chips completed this starter, and the quality of this appetizer boded well for the rest of the meal.
When presented with her $15.95 tamale meal, Tertia admonished our server, saying “You should have warned us!” To put it mildly, the portions were generous and more in line with plateaus than platters. The tamales were better than most, with large chunks of moist and flavorful pork encased in masa possessing a hefty but not leaden texture. The accompanying green chile sauce had surprising complexity, combining both peppery spice and an underlying fruity smoothness. A side of rice was perfectly cooked, and velvety refried beans rounded out the plate.
I had a similar response to my $15.95 Tampiquena platter, considered to be the only combination plate commonly found in both the U.S. and Mexico. Consisting of a hefty slab of carne asada paired with a cheese enchilada, this Tampiquena also came with the traditional garnishes of onions and peppers. Sweet and golden described the caramelized onions, and the roasted green chiles were tantalizingly hot, but not unpleasant. The meat itself was the skirt steak common to carne asada, and it was thicker and more tender than average. The endearingly gooey enchilada overflowed with cheese, and epitomized Tex-Mex comfort food.
While we enjoyed our meals, we might have been better off emulating the regulars who ordered on an à-la-carte basis. This seemed to be a cheaper alternative to our full boat plates, although our choices still represented good value. Both of us had adequate leftovers for a full meal at home. The Terrace Maya may not be anything fancy, but it presents satisfying chow, as well as the character and humble setting of Pancho Barnes.
Photo: Charles Loughliin
Clay’s obscurity corner
A wide world of tamales
Order a tamale in most Mexican restaurants in the U.S., and you’ll likely get a helping of steamed masa cornmeal with a pork filling wrapped up in corn husk. However, there are literally thousands of lesser-known variations on this pre-Columbian comestible. Sweet tamales may include sugar with the masa, a dried fruit filling and a sprinkling of vanilla or cinnamon. Another intriguing variant is the tamal en cazuela, commonly found in Cuba. In this dish, the ingredients are mixed together in a pot, and served in a bowl like mush instead of being presented in a corn-husk wrapper.
Terrace Maya
4929 N. Broadway, Boulder
1-866-742-8701
Respond: letters@boulderweekly.com
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