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March 12-18, 2009 buzz@boulderweekly.com
• Stocking up Two books inspire us to fill the larder for a better diet by Emily Nunn
• Infestation was blessing for pinot noir
Just around the corner Scotch Corner Pub brings a taste of the Highlands to Boulder by Clay Fong
Very few things intimidate me when it comes to what I’ll eat. Duck feet, no problem. Menudo, it’s an old weekend favorite. Sea urchin roe, the savory equivalent of vanilla ice cream. But I’ve always been fearful of the Scottish delicacy known as haggis. After all, what other response could one have to a dish where the chief ingredient is something called pluck, a combination of sheep’s liver, heart and lungs. While onion and spices may take some of the offal edge off, it doesn’t help matters that the traditional presentation comes neatly tucked inside a sheep’s intestine.
Nevertheless, the abundant charms of Boulder’s Scotch Corner Pub beckoned, and it was here that I decided to literally take the plunge into sheepish innards. Of course, the haggis isn’t the only reason to venture here. While this pub is housed in one of the newly constructed modernistic blocks downtown, the atmosphere is still warm and welcoming, enhanced by comfy pub furniture and a most hospitable staff. While this venue stands out for its unique and authentic pub fare, it’s also noteworthy for an abundance of vegetarian and vegan options. While old standbys such as fish and chips, burgers, and bangers and mash are available, one can also enjoy meatless stuffed peppers, BBQ “ribs,” and yes, even vegetarian haggis.
As I had no basis to judge the authenticity of the Scottish fare, I brought along my friend Lisa. She spent much of her childhood in the Scottish village of Peebles, best known for its tweed and the mental institution run by her father. Her main course was the $12.95 vegetable pie with neeps, or mashed turnips. This dish possessed a beautifully puffy domed crust and contained a hearty mélange of vegetables, including red peppers and carrots. The pie’s gravy was gratifyingly creamy with a hint of curry. The addition of cabbage, proclaimed Lisa, made this pie “muy authentico.”
To ease our way into the ultimate Scottish delicacy, we tucked into an unlikely $9.95 starter of nachos adorned with spiced sheep innards. This appetizer, garnished with guacamole and jalapeño, were the equal of what you’d get at any other bar, and one could easily mistake the haggis for chili. While I noted that Lisa’s initial commentary was “I’m dismayed to report it tastes just like haggis,” she later argued that what she actually said was, “It’s the same cursed mess as I remember bein’ force-fed by the fanged shepherds at me school.”
Certainly, such sentiments did little to assuage my fear. But I surprised myself by finishing most of my $15.95 haggis entrée. Unlike traditional preparations, this dish was not presented in a sausage-like casing, but rather spooned like stew over mashed potato and turnip. While the strong mutton flavor might be off-putting to some, one can appreciate how this is Highland comfort food. It’s the sort of dish that wards off a winter’s chill or provides sustenance before going into battle alongside Rob Roy MacGregor. Actually, I’d probably order it again. While the haggis may not be everyone’s dram of Scotch, this pub provides more than this formidable delicacy. Taken as a friendly spot with an ample supply of stout beverages and appealing meals for both carnivore and herbivore, the Scotch Corner Pub is rapidly becoming a favorite personal hangout.
Clay’s obscurity corner Burns Suppers Burns Suppers are a popular Scottish event celebrating the life and work of poet Robert Burns, known for such classics as “Auld Lang Syne.” Traditionally held in late January around the time of Burns' birthday, these meals feature haggis as the centerpiece of the celebration. When the main course arrives at the table, it is often accompanied by a bagpiper, and the host is expected to recite Burns' “Address to a Haggis.” The dessert, Tipsy Laird, is a trifle consisting of sherry-soaked cake, fruit and custard. It is also rumored that Scotch whisky is consumed at these suppers.
Scotch Corner Pub 1800 Broadway 303-545-2000
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