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July 31-August 6, 2008
buzz@boulderweekly.com
• Grillmeisters
Tough cuts for tough times are just one of many ways to go for the economic-minded chef
by Bill Ward
• Measuring marinades
by Cathy Frisinger
A summer blossom
Sunflower provides natural shade for the heated diner
by Clay Fong
Driven by the recent heat wave, I recently sought out lighter, cooling fare that would inoculate me against the deleterious impacts of these dog days. Pearl Street’s Sunflower Organic Dining, known for its healthy and organic cuisine, seemed like an appropriate venue to take a cure. Furthermore, I was curious to see how the restaurant was faring since Chef Jef Forsberg took the reins from former chef/owner Jon Pell last summer.
Upon arriving, my friend Cortney and I were promptly seated outside by the gracious hostess. As we passed through the dining room, I noted it retained the warm earth tones and casual comfort of the past. One major difference is that the menu appears to be more influenced by Asian cuisine than it had been in the past. For example, a coconut- and kaffir-marinated bass stays true to Southeast Asian tradition with accompaniments of daikon-laced salad and sticky coconut rice. But fans of Pell’s menus are unlikely to flee the premises as the availability of intriguing meal choices suitable for everyone from vegans to carnivores hasn’t changed. Some currently available items, like the buffalo steak, were on the menu when I last reviewed Sunflower in late 2006.
For her lunch entrée, Cortney selected the $15 special, shrimp and scallops atop a cooling minted asparagus gazpacho. The presentation resembled a thoughtfully composed plate of ceviche, although in this case the fresh-tasting seafood had been cooked to perfection and juxtaposed against the brightness of chopped vegetables and green gazpacho. “The best way to describe this,” said Cortney, “is to call it crispy summer fresh.” It certainly was a winning prescription for fending off those dog-day deleterious impacts.
I was equally happy with my $11 salad buffet. This meal starts with a cup of the soup of the day — in this case, a dark red tortilla number flavored with enough chile to assert itself, but not enough to detract from the pleasantly smoky taste. Slices of sweet red onion enhanced the complexity, and a crusty seeded role gave this course unexpected substance.
While the number of items in the salad bar won’t favorably compare with the selection in mass-market all-you-can-eat joints, Sunflower makes up for lack of quantity with high quality. The greens are all crisp and fresh, and if you’re looking for iceberg, you’ve come to the wrong place. But there’s some interesting selections to be had, such as a mix of sea vegetables that punch up a typical salad with unique flavor and texture. But the real stars of the show are some of the prepared options, such as an outrageously flavorful smoked ahi salad. This is the best tuna salad you’re likely to ever sample, with the subtle perfume of smoke perfectly balancing out the ahi’s meaty flavor. Less successful was the coriander- and chile-spiced tempeh that struck me as surprisingly bland. I had a much more favorable response to the silky curried tofu that I had sampled on a previous salad-buffet visit.
While a change in ownership can sometimes have disastrous consequences for a restaurant, Forsberg has remained true to the winning philosophy and menu of his predecessor. This is good news as Sunflower continues its tradition of serving up natural and healthy meals that sacrifice nothing in terms of artful presentation or satisfyingly fresh flavor.
Sunflower Organic Dining
1701 Pearl St., Boulder, 303-440-0220
Respond: letters@boulderweekly.com
Clay’s obscurity corner
Dog days and stars
The ancient Greeks and Romans noted that the weather this time of year was oppressively hot, wreaking havoc with the citizenry’s spiritual health. Classic-era astronomers also observed that Sirius, the Dog Star, rose concurrently with the sun during this heated period. Hence the term “dog days,” described in the 19th century as the time “when the seas boiled, wine turned sour, dogs grew mad, and all creatures became languid, causing to man burning fevers, hysterics, and phrensies (frenzies).” The Dog Star is associated with another disturbing phenomenon: It was the name of the band that featured Keanu Reeves on bass.
Respond: letters@boulderweekly.com
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