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July 17-23, 2008
buzz@boulderweekly.com
 Dolan’s Restaurant
2319 Arapahoe Rd., Boulder, 303-444-8758
An old-school ambience, understated service and a traditional steak and seafood menu give Dolan’s a clubby feel reminiscent of a retro big-city hangout. Crab Louis salads, chicken piccata and parmesan sole are some of the choices available to the culinary classicist. Discriminating imbibers may also derive pleasure from the encyclopedic wine list and after-dinner drink choices.
Bimbamboo
1710 Pearl St.,Boulder,
303-442-4575
While skeptics may be leery of Bimbamboo’s ambitious menu, it does a remarkably good job of taking Eastern classics and successfully reinterpreting them. A Korean beef rice bowl retains the flavor and tenderness of the original, but it surprises with a blend of exotic grains. While Bimbamboo may not completely capture the finer details of the banh mi, it still gets the flavors of this Vietnamese submarine sandwich absolutely right. The Thai lemonade is a fresh-squeezed revelation, elevated by the addition of both mint and pungent basil.
West End Tavern
926 Pearl St., Boulder, 303-444-3535
The word tavern connotes a certain heartiness, and the West End Tavern more than lives up to this appellation. Imbibers may delight in the selection of beers on tap along with a formidable assortment of small-batch bourbons. Old-school favorites such as mac and cheese get updating with ingredients such as goat chevre, and the burgers are both ample in flavor and size.
Leaf
1601 Pearl St., Boulder, 303-449-2887
A perfect summery locale, Leaf is a top spot for meatless cuisine prepared with an eye towards innovation. A small plate winning mushroom pate or a hearty entrée of tempeh prepared in the Jamaican Jerk style and accompanied by black forbidden rice and fruit salsa are but two examples of the ambitious, but ultimately satisfying, choices available here. For the imbiber, Leaf offers a comprehensive selection of sustainable wines and cocktails prepared with locally produced organic vodka.
Golden Lotus
1964 28th St., Boulder,
303-442-6868
Skip the normal menu with its cream cheese wontons and sesame chicken, and go for something more authentic on the available-by-request traditional menu. Here you’ll find old-school clay pot casseroles and simple but soulful classics such as Chinese broccoli (gai lan) drizzled with oyster sauce. If you’re with a group, check out the special traditional dinners, which feature such items as whole fried fish and a rib-sticking aromatic beef stew.
14th Street Bar & Grill
1400 Pearl St., Boulder,
303-444-5854
Don’t let the large picture windows and wood sculptures hanging from the ceiling fool you. While the 14th Street Bar & Grill has an upscale, if not trendy, vibe confirmed by specials such as a solid salmon salad dressed with dill crème fraiche, it’s a working-class choice that’s the star of the chow. Comfort food fans should ignore the hot open-face turkey sandwich at their peril. It’s a winning combo of moist turkey, savory gravy and fluffy mashed spuds.
The Kitchen
1039 Pearl St., Boulder, 303-544-5973
An upscale, airy locale, The Kitchen is a comfortable spot to enjoy bistro-inspired classics prepared with local and sustainably produced ingredients. Serving everything from a traditional English breakfast with sausage and bacon, as well as light salads for lunch, and steak and seafood for dinner, this eatery has something for just about everyone. Don’t miss the hypnotically compelling pulled pork sandwich.
Sushi Zanmai
1221 Spruce St., Boulder, 303-440-0733
Given its adherence to tradition, it’s unsurprising that Sushi Zanmai’s décor leans less toward hard-edged modernism and more towards a quaint, slightly folksy feel, and it even features a mildly kitschy karaoke set-up. The cuisine consists of sparkling, fresh seafood and some of Boulder’s best sushi. The uri and buri rolls are not to be missed, while the chiraschi — sashimi over vinegared rice — is a layered presentation that is satisfying in both flavor and value.
Jill’s Restaurant
900 Walnut St., Boulder,
720-406-7399
Dubbed by one local luminary as offering “the best vegetarian spread in town,” Jill’s Tuscan Table lunch buffet truly does offer up something for everyone. Warming roasted tomato soup, do-it-yourself sandwiches, a cornucopia of salads and fresh from the oven pizza and strombolis are just some of the self-service selections. Elegant decor and attentive service round out this stay in downtown’s St. Julien Hotel.
Restaurant 4580
4580 Broadway, Boulder,
303-448-1500
Named for its address on North Broadway, 4580 positions itself as a neighborhood eatery, but the setting, service and dishes are closer to those found at a destination restaurant. The menu takes continental classics, such as osso bucco shanks and amps them up with intriguing ingredients such as exotic grains. Vegetarians can order a “picnic” option consisting of a choice of meatless picks including impeccable asparagus and creamy polenta. Lastly, much of the menu can be had in a gluten-free preparation.
Chy Thai
2720 Canyon Blvd., Boulder,
303-440-2903
Chy Thai’s interior may make it look like just another fast casual joint. However, its value-priced Thai cuisine is decidedly a cut above, featuring old favorites such as pad thai along lesser-known entrées such as a surprisingly subtle garlic and pepper stir fry. The drunken noodles are both spicy and flavorful, and are best washed down with a glass of refreshingly creamy Thai iced tea. For dessert, a coconut-scented mound of sticky rice accented by ripe sweet slices of mango complete this experience akin to one night in Bangkok.
Trattoria on Pearl
1430 Pearl St., Boulder,
303-544-0008
This Italian stalwart serves up reasonable power-lunch specials featuring pasta, as well as parmagiana and sausage sandwiches. It’s hard to go wrong with such choices as spaghetti carbonara. Bacon-like pancetta creates a mildly salty foil to the richness of cream and organic eggs, which is satisfying without being overly heavy. This dish sums up everything right about power lunching at the Trattoria on Pearl; here one can eat like a CEO without breaking the bank.
Cosmo’s Pizza
1325 Broadway, Boulder,
303-447-1133
Located on the Hill, Cosmo’s Pizza has many virtues, including being one of the only places in town where you can get a slice until 2:30 a.m. New York-style pie is the name of the game here, and even the most finicky East Coast transplant can find something to love. Whether it’s the thin and crispy crust, tasty toppings such as premium anchovies, or entree salads, Cosmo’s delivers.
Q’s
2115 13th St., Boulder, 303-442-4880
Although breakfast prices aren’t at the Grand Slam level, they still pass the straight-face test, as one can get a decent morning meal at Q’s for about $10. One unique aspect of Q’s menu is the availability of non-traditional breakfast choices, such as quesadillas and clam chowder. But one misses breakfast selections such as outstanding scones, a transcendent granola and spinach and goat cheese scrambled eggs at their peril.
You & Mee Noodle House
1311 Broadway, Boulder,
720-214-0585
Featuring cheap and cheerful Vietnamese eats, the You & Mee Noodle House serves up bowls of pho noodle soup, rice and noodle bowls and Southeast Asian sandwiches. The pho, traditionally made with beef stock, is also available with vegetable or chicken broth as well. This eatery also serves up one of the best banh mi sandwiches you’ll find in town, available with fillings ranging from tofu to chicken on a baguette-style bun.
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